Travel
Nine days, three cities by train
Three cities, nine days and one rail pass. We started in the north with canals and bicycles, went south for the hills above the sea, and finished on the Atlantic with the trams and the custard tarts. Here is what we would do again, and what we would skip.
Amsterdam

Amsterdam is at its best before ten in the morning, when the canal streets belong to cyclists and bakery vans. Walk the western canal ring from the old harbour to the flower market, then cross to the quieter streets of the east. Skip the boat tours at midday; rent a small electric boat in the evening instead and see the bridges lit up.
Stay away from the station area. A room on one of the side canals costs about the same and you fall asleep to bells instead of tram brakes.
Barcelona

In Barcelona we took the old funicular up the hill at the end of the afternoon and stayed for the sunset over the whole city and the sea. It is the best free view in town. Down below, the old quarter is busy all day; the beaches north of the port are calmer and only a short metro ride away.
Eat late, like everybody else. Kitchens open at nine and the small places in the side streets of the old quarter are full by ten.
Lisbon

Lisbon is built on hills, and the old yellow trams are the easy way up. The famous line is always full; the funicular a few streets away climbs to the same viewpoint with half the queue. Walk down, not up, through the old quarter, and end at the river for the evening light.
Buy the day ticket: it covers the trams, the funiculars and the lift in the centre, and it pays for itself after four rides.